My day started with a cold shower and a tea kettle that didn’t work. These are not exactly first world problems. In fact, the cold shower felt pretty good. After a light breakfast, a quick check out, and Mr. Wong was waiting and ready.
We first went to a well known temple, Diao Chong. There was an excursion boat nearby. We opted out as the day at 10:00 was already HOT.
The second temple, Lu-Ehr-Men, was the “Holy Mother Temple”. And there are interestingly similarities to the Blessed Mother in Catholicism. It is also associated with Matsu, and she is a protector, and known as the heavenly mother.
I went through the Taoist process of making a petition, an offering, and the symbolic burning of money. I can still smell the incense on my clothes hours later. The temple was over 300 years old, and really quite big. The experience leaves you feeling uplifted. I prayed for my mother and father in law, which is appropriate. I asked for their health and longevity.
After, we went to the salt museum. Tainan is known for its salt beds. A few purchases, and on the road again…
Next we went to lunch. It was explained that the restaurant has its own boat. Whatever they catch that day, is on the menu. And today, the fisherman were very lucky.
So, if I were to suggest an “Anthony Bourdain” experience, this would be it. Our guide went into the kitchen to make the arrangements. We were situated right near the docks and fish market. The venue was open air with over head fans. The floor was concrete, and we were the only patrons.
And then food started arriving. There was kimchee and seaweed and little clams for a starter. Next fried rice and fried noodles. Then, fresh clams in a light salty base. Then came fried oysters; the best I ever had. A whole fish; there was no translation for the type. It tasted like a snapper. The sauce was soy based, but there was basil and some unknown lemony Chinese herb. The fish was flash fried.
And then my favorite…flower crabs. These are delicate shiny pink shelled creatures. The meat is silky and sweet. Apparently, we hit their season. We had males and specifically, this is the time to eat males.
The only sauce was on the fish. Though there was a ketchupy something for the oysters. After, a platter of fruit; pineapple, honey dew and yellow watermelon, which is grown locally.
The owner came out and laughingly scolded us. She said she was just getting started when we announced we were pau (done). She said she’d planned on bringing out a lobster…I was a little disappointed not to have tried it. But, we were definitely pau.
A quick tour of the establishment, then on to the nearby fish market. Here, everything was alive in large saltwater tanks. Crabs were dancing, fish were swimming. Ladies sat on stools and magically fashioned fish balls used in hot pots and soups.
People were friendly and were not bothered by my video and photo taking. It reminded me a bit of Hong Kong, but of course on a much smaller scale.
Back in the car, and we were off in quest of sweet bean curd. This is a local delicacy I’ve heard of. It’s basically, cold tofu in a brown sugar soup. Mine had tapioca bubbles. It was silky, light, sweet and cold. And it was surprisingly refreshing.
On to the train station. We kind of just made our train…But, Mr. Wong surprised us all with huge boxes of locally made noodles. I’d love to take them home, but am fearful Hawaii Agriculture won’t allow it. Mr. Wong was truly delightful.
Quick train ride, then back in Taipei. A short cab ride, Wei Chun had booked a local style massage for us. I decided to shower first and flooded the room. They were nice about it but, I saw a little eye rolling. Two flights up, I was lead to a small room with a bed in the floor. I was told to remove my clothes and lie down, cover myself. My therapist entered and was divine. She focused on my achy joints and had a keen sense of the sciatic nerve. Quick strokes followed by long fore armed pressure. Bliss!
So, she left the room. I assumed she was finished. I got up, and dressed. She returned, and kindly told me she wasn’t finished and I should undress. She went on to do a wonderful scalp,neck and decalatage massage. More bliss. A little lost in translation moment.
Two flights down. I met up with my friends. We grabbed a cab. Back at my original hotel. Same room. They’re very good here. Down to the MO Bar. Several glasses of Montepulciano…
Blanket show now…thinking I’ve earned it.
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Lu Ehr Men Temple
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Lunch
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Sweet tofu
Aloha!
marybethruth 