Author: marybethruth

There’s always that one song. It catches you off guard. It can bring you back to a person, place or situation. Upon hearing it…it all becomes relevant again. You’re brought back to that situation and all the emotions connected to that moment in time.

I had dinner tonight with friends. Not just friends. These are people with whom you can share politics, religion, and dreams. It’s not just because we share views and experiences. These are friends that don’t judge, support and are just present.

After a particularly great meal, I got into the car to drive home.  Immediately, my iPhone kicked in and randomly loaded an old Jackson Browne song. And I was transported to another place…

“I hear the sound of the world where we played…”

Have you ever been with someone who makes time stop? You remember how charged the air was at that moment. It’s the newness, the passion one feels when the stars align and that one person in that one moment appears.

Tonight, we discussed homelessness, politics, the have and have nots. How is it that some choose to live here, the most expensive place to live in the U.S., and never really get ahead?

“If you ever need holding, call my name, I’ll be there…

There was a time when that one person garnered your all. Nothing or no one else mattered. Their needs and priorities were what mattered most in the world.

During dessert we discussed how we might have had plans to have changed the world, but now, we’d somehow gotten settled, into our lives/worlds with no regrets, perhaps some complacency…

“Yeah,and I was much younger then. And I must have thought that I would know if things were going to end.”

We parted ways tonight knowing we’d be traveling together soon; having an adventure of sorts. It’s true. We actually enjoy one another’s company so much, that we’ll take it to the next level. Yes, we’ll be embracing the debauchery of Vegas and all that it entails.

“But the moment has passed by me now, to have put away my pride and just come through for you somehow.”

In life, you make choices. Sometimes the choices are oddly made for you. You have to let things and people go. At a point when no value is earned, it’s time to move on. And letting go, is often the most in humanely human thing you can do.

“You’re the color of the sky reflected in each store front window pane. You’re the whispering and the sighing of my tires in the rain. You’re the hidden cost, and the thing that’s lost in everything I do, yeah I’ll never stop looking for you.”

So, we move on. We accept new experiences and people into our lives. But as much as we divorce ourselves from feelings and commitments of the past, are we ever really free?

I wonder…as I go through the new existence and life I’ve created, do I ever really stop looking for you?

On to Vegas…

Thanks Jackson Browne for the inspiration and the not so subtle reminders…

My days and nights are a jumbled mess. No matter how late I force myself to stay up, at 2:30 am, I’m wide awake.

So, I do what everyone does, watch bad TV, eat Ruffles, or maybe Fritos, and pretend that I’ll catch up later. And, that just doesn’t seem to happen. I also have a tendency to plan my next adventure. In this case, that would be Las Vegas, soon.

Transportation, lodging, transit, dinner resos, show tickets…all of these things have been completely planned. Now I’m not one of those crazy people who once locked in, no change may take place…I’m actually pretty flexible. I just like to have my game plan in place; subject to change.

I’d like to think traveling with me affords time to enjoy the adventure. But alas, there is nothing I can not bear more than indecision. The, “I don’t care, what to you want to do?” never takes place on my trips. I personally like a roadmap, with a potential for tweaking.

So, alas yet another day has been wasted. It’s 4:30 in the afternoon. I am still in my pajamas. At a certain point, you just give into the lag and hope it passes. Until then, you are owned by your sleep patterns.

How do you say good bye to people who give so much of themselves to you? They take time off of work, away from their families, carry your bags through crowded train stations…and do it all with a smile.

A chance meeting in Paris in 2011. Flash forward. 2015. You know the intricate details of their lives, their families, their dreams and goals. You know their good times, you share their bad…and you are friends.

I am so very fortunate to know these people. I truly hope that everyone can know and have people like this in their lives.

Today, a quick breakfast and Jimmy Chang met me in the lobby. A cab ride and we were at the movies. “Minions”. Hilarious. Some of the humor was lost on my friends. The movie takes place in 1968. The music, the irony, all had to be explained. Having been alive in 1968, I was happy to share. You must see it. If you’re my age…belly laughs.

From there, we went to a very posh lunch. “The First”. A set menu with our favorite Sancerre. Starter, salmon. Next, a hot vegetable soup made of loofah. Did you know that was a vegetable? I did not.

Main: bream fish with asparagus and lovely sauces. Dessert: Tainan Mangoes, sponge cake, gelato, earl grey.

I then had to say good bye to Daphne. She has a two hour bus ride home. I fought back tears. She has some tough decisions ahead…I wish her well. Jimmy left for his J O B.

Next, Wei Chun had arranged a hair wash and scalp massage. And a blow dry. It was luxurious. Apparently, it’s very common here. The salon was bustling. I was a novelty being American and having curly hair. They were so kind and couldn’t do enough for me.

Then, we walked to one of Bruce’s and my favorites, Wynona. It’s kind of a funky wine bar. A nice savingnon blanc, and we went on to meet Patricia.

Jimmy had suggested a little French bistro. It couldn’t have been more perfect. The waiter/manager, Jordan, spoke French, mandarin, and English. I got to use my haphazard French. He was kind and was ever so curious about Hawaii. He actually asked me to explain “The Descendants” to him.

The bisque, the bouillabaisse, the tartine, were authentic. The wine, a Boudreaux, formidable.

And then the good byes. For those that know me well, this is not my strong suit. I cry…a lot. There were hugs. There were promises for the next visit. We tried to talk Patricia into getting married to justify my next trip. But in the end, we just knew it would be.,,enough said.

Until the next time. Tomorrow, a flight to Incheon Korea…a four hour layover…on to Honolulu.

Who knew that a chance encounter in Paris so long ago could lead to this? And as always…the best gift a man can receive, is a visit from a far away friend. A hui ho.

Aloha!

Aloha!

My day started with a cold shower and a tea kettle that didn’t work. These are not exactly first world problems. In fact, the cold shower felt pretty good. After a light breakfast, a quick check out, and Mr. Wong was waiting and ready.

We first went to a well known temple, Diao Chong. There was an excursion boat nearby. We opted out as the day at 10:00 was already HOT.

The second temple, Lu-Ehr-Men, was the “Holy Mother Temple”. And there are interestingly similarities to the Blessed Mother in Catholicism. It is also associated with Matsu, and she is a protector, and known as the heavenly mother.

I went through the Taoist process of making a petition, an offering, and the symbolic burning of money. I can still smell the incense on my clothes hours later. The temple was over 300 years old, and really quite big. The experience leaves you feeling uplifted. I prayed for my mother and father in law, which is appropriate. I asked for their health and longevity.

After, we went to the salt museum. Tainan is known for its salt beds. A few purchases, and on the road again…

Next we went to lunch. It was explained that the restaurant has its own boat. Whatever they catch that day, is on the menu. And today, the fisherman were very lucky.

So, if I were to suggest an “Anthony Bourdain” experience, this would be it. Our guide went into the kitchen to make the arrangements. We were situated right near the docks and fish market. The venue was open air with over head fans. The floor was concrete, and we were the only patrons.

And then food started arriving. There was kimchee and seaweed and little clams for a starter. Next fried rice and fried noodles. Then, fresh clams in a light salty base. Then came fried oysters; the best I ever had. A whole fish; there was no translation for the type. It tasted like a snapper. The sauce was soy based, but there was basil and some unknown lemony Chinese herb. The fish was flash fried.

And then my favorite…flower crabs. These are delicate shiny pink shelled creatures. The meat is silky and sweet. Apparently, we hit their season. We had males and specifically, this is the time to eat males.

The only sauce was on the fish. Though there was a ketchupy something for the oysters. After, a platter of fruit; pineapple, honey dew and yellow watermelon, which is grown locally.

The owner came out and laughingly scolded us. She said she was just getting started when we announced we were pau (done). She said she’d planned on bringing out a lobster…I was a little disappointed not to have tried it. But, we were definitely pau.

A quick tour of the establishment, then on to the nearby fish market. Here, everything was alive in large saltwater tanks. Crabs were dancing, fish were swimming. Ladies sat on stools and magically fashioned fish balls used in hot pots and soups.

People were friendly and were not bothered by my video and photo taking. It reminded me a bit of Hong Kong, but of course on a much smaller scale.

Back in the car, and we were off in quest of sweet bean curd. This is a local delicacy I’ve heard of. It’s basically, cold tofu in a brown sugar soup. Mine had tapioca bubbles. It was silky, light, sweet and cold. And it was surprisingly refreshing.

On to the train station. We kind of just made our train…But, Mr. Wong surprised us all with huge boxes of locally made noodles. I’d love to take them home, but am fearful Hawaii Agriculture won’t allow it. Mr. Wong was truly delightful.

Quick train ride, then back in Taipei. A short cab ride, Wei Chun had booked a local style massage for us. I decided to shower first and flooded the room. They were nice about it but, I saw a little eye rolling. Two flights up, I was lead to a small room with a bed in the floor. I was told to remove my clothes and lie down, cover myself. My therapist entered and was divine. She focused on my achy joints and had a keen sense of the sciatic nerve. Quick strokes followed by long fore armed pressure. Bliss!

So, she left the room. I assumed she was finished. I got up, and dressed. She returned, and kindly told me she wasn’t finished and I should undress. She went on to do a wonderful scalp,neck and decalatage massage. More bliss. A little lost in translation moment.

Two flights down. I met up with my friends. We grabbed a cab. Back at my original hotel. Same room. They’re very good here. Down to the MO Bar. Several glasses of Montepulciano…

Blanket show now…thinking I’ve earned it.

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Lu Ehr Men Temple

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Lunch

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Sweet tofu

Aloha!

Today, began early. AOC 9:15. I had to store luggage, check out and be ready to roll.

Surprisingly, I was prompt. Let’s just say last night was a little later than planned.

Wei Chun and Daphne were right on time, and I just joined them in their taxi.

On to the Taipei train station. It’s clean and modern and very organized. Down to our platform, and onto the train, Tainan bound. Today, we had business class, and a high speed train. Easy ride. Passed rice paddies, and large farms. The train line is relatively new, and so are the stations.

Almost two hours later, we arrived. The arrangements were: a classmate of Wei Chun’s brother-in-law was to be our driver and tour guide. Mr. Wong, I can’t pronounce or spell his first name, was prompt and even had ironed his shirt. He is retired Taiwanese military, an MP. He took us to his new Camry, black, with incredible AC. You see…it was maybe 98 today in Tainan and not a leaf was stirring…

The plan was made to go straight to the town’s new museum, Chimei. It was privately built and houses the man’s own collection. OK, it was huge. After a quick refreshment, and a gift shop visit, we began our tour.

It didn’t take me long to get rather…confused. Here, there were Rodin sculptures, Picasso pottery piece, Degas bronzes, Chagall oils…and they were all kind of tossed together. It difficult to explain. In room after room, there were Dutch Master’s works positioned right next to Russian icons. It was as though the guy had emptied his attic and just hung things willy nilly.

And then…the musical instruments. Originally, this man collected violins. And he also played. It is obviously his true love. There were violins dating back to the 1500’s. And they were beautifully displayed. Great care had been taken to showcase their unique beauty.

My take away…

At first, I was kind of irritated. Who would display such amazing pieces so haphazardly? And then I realized…the place was jam packed, on a Tuesday. People were completely blown away by their experience. And I determined, how great is it that people who would normally never have the opportunity to see great art, actually were. And isn’t that what it’s all about?

We left. We walked to the car what seemed like miles. It was excruciatingly hot. On to the next place.

The city is very different than Taipei. There are not many high rises. Things are quite orderly. You kind of get a small town feeling. People are friendly, but literally no one speaks English. Today, I saw no other Caucasians. And I liked it. I liked it because I felt like I was in a place few Americans have experienced. And, I so appreciated the place.

Tainan is known for food. The Taiwanese always talk about Tainan’s snacks. What we had was solely seafood. And it’s all delish.

We made our way to a little outdoor beer garden. The beer was German and so very cold. I savored it. Mr. Wong went into the neighborhood to fetch local delicacies, shrimp rolls…fried and hot and so fresh. Also, he got shrimp chips. They were made locally and light and crispy.

And then…the school group came. Roughly 25 kids, ages 8-12 suddenly took the remainder of the tables. They were adorable. One knew some English and wanted to show off a bit. But kids are kids. And they got loud and kicked each other and burped and in general had a great time. I found it especially funny that they much would have preferred McDonald’s to the homemade burgers they were served.

We said our goodbyes and headed to the hotel: Silk Palace, a sister property to the one we’d stayed at in Hualian. Let’s just say, it’s perfect and modern and sumptuous.

On to dinner.

Mr. Wong had chosen a local favorite. The translated name means: flavor of the sea. There is no menu. They simply tell you what they have. And it is fresh. We had, shrimp, which arrived moving and was cooked at the table, day lily blossom’s sautéed in a light oil with chili peppers, clams in a Thai like basil sauce, and escargot. But mostly, I had crab. And it was hot and ever so fresh. All was accompanied by glass after glass of my new go to:Taiwan Beer. Except for the clams, no sauces were offered. You’re supposed to fully taste the freshness.

Did I mention I was the only American? There was lots of staring and some even offered a friendly “hello”. But mostly they wondered why was I there? At times like that, I take pleasure in nodding and smiling.

Back to the hotel.

My assessment of today: the Chimei Museum is a lot like what I’ve seen of Asia. It’s kind of a hodgepodge of architectural styles, disparate influences, throngs of people…but somehow, it just works. I guess art does imitate life.

Tomorrow, touring Tainan’s temples, and more seafood…

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Aloha!

My morning was like a peaceful sanctuary. I sat outside on the balcony, drank my tea, and listened to the sound of the water coursing its way through the gorge. Somehow, the tea just tasted better.

Breakfast was a choice: either eastern or western. I chose western only because I knew I had a long day with lots of travel. Eating the unfamiliar, not always the best choice…

So, they brought me Fruit Loops to start. And yes, I ate them. You see, as a child, my mother would not allow sugared cereals. Anything sugary was taboo. I savored the crunchy sweetness and all these years later still felt guilty for doing so. It went on to lovely homemade breads and an omelette. But, the Fruit Loops were kind of my favorite.

On the road at 10:00. Wei Chun arranged a driver for us, Eric. He spoke about 34 words of English, and always had a smile. He toured us around Taroko National Park, making many stops along the way. The gorge meanders its way through the mountains. There are many picturesque spots for photos. During one stop, Wei Chun and Daphne decided to do the walking tour with compulsory hard hats. I opted out. Eric and I had a nice conversation about baseball. When I shared that my team was the Tigers, he said he was sorry about Miguel Cabrera having injured his leg and not being able to play in the All Star Game. In the end, perhaps baseball IS the universal language. He went on to say he had nearly played professionally in Taiwan, but at his peak, he knew he had to make a living. Oh, and he was a pitcher. He also felt badly that Justin Verlander appears to have lost it. Tiger Baseball…

On to the next area. We drove to the easternmost part of Taiwan. He told me I could face the ocean, and wave to Hawaii. I will say, that the Pali/cliffs resembled Hawaii, especially Kauai, and were equally dramatic and beautiful.

From there, per my request, we went shopping. The area, as I’ve said, is known for marble. He took us to a marble shop. Here we found beautiful jewelry made of rose stone, also from the region. Purchases were made…

Back in the van, a quick stop at a tea shop, then on to the train station. Rain fell and the temperature slightly lowered.

Easy and quiet trip back to Taipei. Jumped in a cab, had to recheck into my hotel, and we were off to dinner. There is an Italian restaurant we’d all tried before. And it was just as good the second time. Fettuccine with truffle cream and mushroom sauce. Patricia joined us after work. We had a lovely Italian white.

Patricia shared her latest “massage” experience. There is a procedure called “scrapping”. It is done as best I can assess to remove bad energy, heat and stress from your body. And yes it is really painful. I had to look up a you tube video to fully understand it. Let’s just say, me not so much. I can’t imagine Americans having this done. I understand it’s cultural and an ancient Chinese healing practice. I am doubtful it’s happening anytime soon in the USA. Let’s leave it at that.

I was brave tonight and took a cab by myself. The driver never said a single word during the 10 minute cab ride. It was a bit awkward…

Unpacking now. Re packing. Heading to Tainan tomorrow. Oh, and I have a facial later and am meeting friends for drinks after that…

…and the adventure continues.

My Taipei Ohana, Patricia, Daphne and Wei Chun, The 101 is in the background.
Aloha!

Got up and out early for today’s adventure.

Had to check out of my hotel, store a bag, re pack and be ready to go…

10:30, ass on curb (AOC…a phrase coined by my first husband).

Cab ride to the train station. My travel partners Wei Chun and Daphne can navigate it all with ease. I follow along, and watch as people stare. I find it quite comical. I’m sure they’re wondering, what is this American woman doing here? I smile and nod. I attempt to be the Ambassador of Aloha. Some smile back, usually the kids. Most look quickly away avoiding eye contact.

The train left promptly. Trains in Taiwan are spacious, cool, and spotlessly clean. And this one was pretty much new. On board, holiday tourists hoping to escape some of the city’s oppressive heat. Note that because of Hulian’s popularity, even booking train passage is arduous. I am very lucky to be here for so many reasons.

Our journey would be two hours. We wound our way Eastward, through many tunnels. I managed a few zzz’s still feeling the effect of last night’s festivities. There were glimpses of the Pacific here and there. Things are quite undeveloped.

There was a group of “older” ladies (probably my age), and they seemed a part of a reunion. They giggled and laughed and gossiped like schoolgirls. Some things truly are universal. I found it interesting that they all had the exact same hairdo…

Once at our destination, we found the van Wei Chun had booked for us to make the hour plus journey to Taroko National Park, and our hotel, The Silk Palace. The trip was a bit harrowing once inside the park. The road traversed the gorge for miles. Winding along twisting curves we made our way. Many times the road was one lane, and we’d have to yield to traffic. Much of it passed through tunnels deep in the mountains. Above us, clouds hung on verdant green covered peaks. Below us, the craggy marble boulders all along what looked like a dried river bed.

There were places along the route where the gorge was completely dry. A mile down the road, it would be deep enough to easily kayak, though no one was. But everywhere, there were huge marble rocks that looked like some ancient God had strewn them from above.

Once at the hotel, we were whisked to a private lounge, offered refreshments, and shown some of the hotel’s amenities. My room is a suite. Wei Chun spoils me to the fullest.

Dinner was a buffet. Anything you’d ever desire. Lots of kids/families. Lovely Italian wine, white, cool refreshing. After, a second bottle. A Bordeaux I’d brought Wei Chun. Cab franc/Malbec . Delish. We sat outside by an open fire, and watched the stars come out, one by one. The canyon colors fell softly as the sun set. The light was calm and peaceful. But then, it got too hot. Went inside. AC.

Drank Taiwan beer. Generic lager. Cold. Clean.

So many laughs. Daphne took her sausage coupon and waited in line while they grilled boar sausages on sticks with garlic. She said they were heavenly; I’ll have to take her word on it.

Saw the finale of the aboriginal dancers. Solved world problems…sort of.

Blanket show…zzz

Subject: Day 1 Taipei
The trip here could not have been smoother. It may have been oddly, the best flight I’ve ever had. This is only odd because I landed right in the middle of a Typhoon. People here really pay them little attention. Apparently, it occurs very often. From what I’ve seen, it just means lots of rain and wind.

My hotel is sumptuous. It’s relatively new and my first time staying here. My young friend Jimmy Chang is in their management training program.

Wei Chun arrived promptly at 11:00 and there was lots of caffeine. We went on to meet Jimmy for lunch at the hotel bistro, Une, Deux, Trois. The chef was trained in France. Everything was…perfect.

When it came time to chose a wine, ironically, the wine list had a Sancerre from Henri Bourgeois, Loire Valley, the same winery we’d met at and toured together, now many years ago. And yes, it too was perfect. Just when we thought we couldn’t stuff one more thing into our mouths following escargot, bisque, etc…the desserts came. There was chocolate cake with orange filling, lime sorbet, fruited cakes with gelato served with dry ice. Did I mention the hazelnut soufflé?

Then Jimmy had to go to work. Dr. Patricia Wu another dear friend arrived. Lunch officially took three hours. The chat constant and so much laughter. Sometimes, it amazes me how I can have so much in common with people from so far away.

We headed out, the rain was unyielding. After a bit of a detour, we found our way to Hsingtien Temple. Every time I visit Taipei I make time to visit this sanctuary of Taoism. Things have changed a bit. They’ve gone green. No more offerings to the Buddha. No more burning incense. But, they’ve kept the serenity. There’s a calmness that you can not escape. It envelopes you upon entering. There are groups chanting the sutra, volunteers to cleanse your soul. And there’s the opportunity to ask the Buddha a heartfelt question.

I won’t share mine, but I will say that the answer and explanation were spot on. The temple had a different vibe today from other times I’ve visited. My friends noticed too. Maybe it was the pounding rain? Or maybe the lack of people? Or maybe it just works better without the incense and offerings. Whatever the case, you leave feeling better than when you arrived.

From there, another tradition: We went to The 101 for dim sum at Ding Tai Feng. You take a number, and you wait. And you wait. There are hundreds of people…waiting. Because they know.

The dim sum here is an art. The dumplings are filled with broth. You put them on your spoon, poke a hole, let the broth drain, and eat the dumpling followed by the broth. And then you savor. It’s like magic in your mouth. Oh, and the Shanghai cucumbers. And beer. Lots of local beer.

I then hit the wall. A wet cab ride back, fond farewells…for the night. Tomorrow, more adventures…and maybe the typhoon will be over?

Oh, one last thing…Wei Chun’s t-shirt…outfit of the day. She’s so funny.